I hate triggers. Triggers are normally by far the most expensive part of any rifle build. They tend to be machined steel, for the strength to hold the spring and piston, and that quality can add a lot to cost. I do know guys however who have run the stock trigger for years no problem, and personally as long as when you pull the trigger, it shoots, I’m not too fussy on how long or short the pull is or anything fancy like that. However, it’d be a crap upgrade guide if I just skipped past it, so here it goes.
The biggest thing you need to know about triggers is the angle, coming in either 45 or 90 degrees. In short, it’s all about the angle at which they hold the piston in place.
45 Degree sear
90 Degree sear
45’s tend to be the budget option and are fine at lower power levels, but if you’re looking to upgrade, a 90 degree setup is the way to go. A 45 won’t hold up well to higher power springs, and the 90 design holds the piston better when under tension. A lot of people will recommend the 90 for a smoother bolt pull, but in reality that comes down to how wide the sears are, and whether they catch on the cylinder as you pull it back, though 45 degree setups can push the piston upwards against the inside of the cylinder. On the whole, a 90 degree is just better. But where do you start when shopping for one?
One of the key things when looking at the trigger and cylinder side of things, often missed, is parts compatibility. Mixing from different brands such as Action Army, Maple Leaf or Edgi, can lead to having pistons slightly too big/small for the cylinder, small air leaks, or the whole setup not matching up very well on the trigger. For this reason, my highest recommendation is the AirsoftPro set (link here). Now, the usual response to Czech company AirsoftPro by players who need to be seen to be spending money, is that it makes cheap rubbish, but a few years ago it was in nearly every sniper rifle in the UK and probably beyond. It was a great upgrade at the time, and although not as shiny and new, still works exactly the same today. Yes, it is much cheaper than some of the newer options but that takes nothing away from its functionality. Because it’s available as a set for less than most of the top end triggers alone, you can score for a spring, spring guide AND a piston all in one, saving shopping and spending on extras.
More expensive triggers will add that customisable bolt pull but in terms of function it’s hard to add anything to that. People will tell you that the sears last longer, but remember you can just buy replacement sears. The sear is the bit of the trigger section that is holding the weight of everything, so it’s important you get a strong enough sear. Do make sure that you’re using the correct piston for the correct trigger – you can’t mix a 45 degree piston with a 90 degree trigger. Also, check that the spring guide stopper and the sear fit inside the cut in the cylinder – sometimes you may need to file these down to fit.
Triggers. Two types, nothing overly complicated, depends on your wallet really…